Located in the very corner of northwest Poland, in the Pomerania region of sea and sand, Świnoujście is unique. Unlike any other town in the country, it is actually stretched out over 44 islands, though only three are populated. This wildly romantic setting is home to a bustling fishing port, naval base and beach resort and is well worth exploring, at any time of year.
Text by Michelle Smith
Thanks to its island location, Świnoujście is one of the most beautiful towns on the Polish coast, and it also has one of the most interesting geographical stories to tell. As mentioned, it is spread over 44 islands, of which three - Uznam, Wolin and Karsibór - are populated and developed in terms of infrastructure, transport services and economic bases. Having said this, the services and development are clearly divided between the islands, and as such, each retains its own unique character and attractions.
The local governmental administration and a number of spas and health centers are on Uznam Island. What also makes this particular island interesting is that only 40 sq km of its 420 sq km are located in Poland; the largest part of Uznam is actually located on the German side of the border. 80% of Świnoujście residents live on Uznam-Island. This makes the town and island an interesting linguistic and cultural mixture of Polish and German, which is reflected in the street life, the food and the cultural celebrations.
The island of Wolin, which has an area of 265 sq km, is the largest Polish island and is home to Świnoujście's industrial area. Since the extremely important ferry terminal is located on Wolin, as is the state railway system, it is the center of economy and commerce and sees continuous naval traffic between Scandinavia and Poland; it is also used as an intersection for international naval traffic. As such, it has a more rough-and-tumble character than the other two islands, as it is the entry point for visiting sailors who are stopping over for a refreshing stay involving beer, music, good food and some female company.
The third island is Karsibór, and it is completely different from Uznam and Wolin yet again: it is known for its crystal clear waters, summer water sports and lush greenery. Bird lovers and agrotourists will also appreciate the Karsiborska Kępa bird reserve which gives protection to almost 140 bird species, including some very rare, almost extinct,. This makes it a must-visit location for ornithologists and photographers.. In the colder months, the appeal of the water and beaches may be limited, but walks through the woods and parks hold a real attraction for visitors all year round.
Shipping, spas and sights
As written on the Świnoujście tourist webpage: '(The) economic development of Świnoujście is predetermined by the town's geographic location. Marine economy and tourism combined with the health-resort character as well as trade and commerce, form the basis for the development of Świnoujście. The presence of the Polish Navy should not be overlooked here, either...there are over 5,500 active businesses in the town.'
As a town that has played to its strengths, it is no surprise that the largest and best-established aspects of the town reside in the marine economy. The first is the Morska Marine Shipyard which specialises in repairs, overhauls and conversions of sea-going vessels of up to 35,000 tons. Also very strong is the Commercial Port, a busy and bustling port terminal that handles dry bulk cargo (mainly coal, iron ore and aggregate). It's a massive place and with five landing-piers, its total annual cargo handling capacity is about 12 million tons. Another major part of this water-based economy is the ferry terminal which provides services to passengers as well as truck and railway traffic..
Besides the shipping and ship businesses and services, Świnoujście is also very well-known as a seaside health resort. The town is blessed with fresh air and water and it also boasts salt springs and therapeutic mud. As such, its tourist sector is active all year round: in the summer, sun worshippers flock to the beach, but many health tourists skip the summer high season on the sands and opt to come to Świnoujście in the autumn and winter months, which is the time of year that so many illnesses and health problems really begin. At Świnoujście's spas and health retreats, natural treatments that take advantage of the environment are supplemented with modern techniques. Problems dealt with by the health practitioners range from respiratory and circulatory system problems to angio- and cardio-neuroses and skin diseases.
But if you are not a sailor and if your health is in perfect condition, then Świnoujście still has much to offer you. As mentioned, the beach – which stretches across Uznam and Wolin islands – is a popular tourist attraction in the summer. Once the sunbathing is done, check out the lighthouse on Wolin. It's 68m tall, making it the tallest on the Baltic coast, and has 300 steps. Visitors fit and determined enough to tackle the stairs are rewarded with a stunning view of the town, the sea and the islands. Observe local fishermen and sports-lovers angling in the water: the sea has a number of species of fish, such as perch, roach, pike-perch, eel and bream.
A point of real pride for the local tourist office is that Świnoujście is a unique combination of the urban and the natural, largely due to the fact that within the town's boundaries there are 43 sq km of forests as well as numerous parks, including the town's best- known green area, Spa Park. It was founded 170 years ago, and today it boasts a glorious display of Mediterranean vegetation. Another park that the town promotes is the Wolin National Park, located 15km away from the town itself and which has numerous natural monuments. And finally, for those who wish to explore the German side of Uznam Island, there is the Usedom Nature Park ('Usedom' is the German word for 'Uznam')..
As mentioned, summer is the non-health tourist high season, and so the entire social life of the town becomes concentrated on the seaside district, especially above the town's major promenade. It stretches around the shell-shaped concert hall and along the entire stretch of shopping and catering establishments. In the summer, it is essential to take a walk along Władysława IV quayside: boat buffs will enjoy observing the harbour installations and types of vessels which range from small pleasure-boats, to fish cutters; from earnest little tug-boats to massive merchant and naval ships. In the winter, of course, such a walk should only be undertaken by the most hardy – so do plan to end your adventure at a local tavern and warm up with some thick and meaty Polish soup, or a glass of grzaniec (mulled red wine with cloves).
How to get there:
By air
The nearest airport to Świnoujście is located in Goleniów, about 45km northeast of Szczecin (www.airport.com.pl). There are direct flights to Goleniów from Bristol, Birmingham, Dublin, Liverpool, London and Oslo. Flights between Goleniów and Warsaw, take around 55 minutes and tickets are quite reasonable; we saw one seat sale advertising fares starting from 137 PLN (36 Euros).
On foot/bicycle
From the west, the town's limits are defined by the German border, with a crossing for pedestrians and cyclists to the German town of Ahlbeck. This overland crossing to/from Germany is only 2 km west of the town of Świnoujście.
By train/car/motorcycle
It is possible to drive from Germany via the Świnoujście-Ahlbeck Road (Nr. 111) and also via the Świnoujście-Garz Road (Nr. 110). It has been possible to use both crossings in Świnoujście since December 2007. The UBB train from Germany has been in operation since September 2008.
By boat
In Świnoujście there are two ferry links between Uznam and Wolin. As the ferries provide the only service between the islands, Uznam residents quite rightly call themselves genuine islanders. Passenger boats to Germany are run by German company Adler-Schiffe (www.adler-schiffe.de), with crossing every Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday, three times daily, with increased crossings during the Summer months. Those wishing to take the ferry to Scandinavia have a choice of locations: the major carrier Polferries (www.polferries.pl) operates ferries to Ystad (Sweden), Ronne (Denmark) and Copenhagen. All ferries depart from the ferry terminal on Wolin Island.
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