After the short break, the hike continues deeper into the Bieszczady Mountains, a relatively low-altitude mountain range in the south east corner of Poland. Keeping on eye on the path and the other aimed at the sky, I skip and hop from rock to rock, cross over tiny creeks while slowly inching my way up the slope.

 

It's another hour of hotfooting before I finally reach my destination, the surprisingly isolated Duszatyński Lakes. Standing 701 metres above sea level, this cluster of medium-sized lakes where formed over a century ago when a massive slab of slate slipped from the peak of Chryszczata Mountain into Olchowaty Stream. Originally there where three, but only two remain today, the smaller Mniejsze Lake and the larger and more impressive Górne Lake which are protected since 1957 by the Zwiezło Nature Reserve. Breathtakingly serene and hauntingly wild, these tarns are fringed by mossy logs, biologically-diverse, thick vegetation and towering trees, some of which hold gentle conversations with the wind. It's the tail end of spring and the foliage is still a glossy mix of velvety greens, deep yellows and rusty brown - stunning aesthetics that translate well into photographs.

 

Stretching out across hundreds of kilometres in Poland's south-eastern tip, this wild hilly terrain forms the easternmost portion of the Carpathian chain of mountains that curve 1500 kilometres along the borders of most Central and Eastern European countries, including Slovakia, Hungary, Serbia, Austria, Poland, Ukraine, Romania and the Czech Republic. This majestic range, known to many as the backbone of Eastern Europe, features a highly diverse and largely unspoiled landscape, from towering clusters of glacial peaks to valleys hidden between mountain folds. The majority of the mountain's Polish part lies in the Podkarpackie Voivodship (which literally translates to 'under the Carpathian Mountains').

 

Podkarpackie is one of the least known and most underrated provinces of Poland. Bordered by the Ukraine on the east and Slovakia on the south, this region covers an area of over 16,200 square kilometres and is home to nearly three million inhabitants, or 5,5 per cent of the country's population. Agriculture and agro-tourism provides the livelihood of more than two-thirds of the area's population as the vast majority of its territory consists of expansive farmland and pristine woodland. Nature, in fact, is Podkarpackie's most celebrated asset, with two national parks - Bieszczady National Park, a UNESCO World Cultural and Natural Heritage site, and the Magura National Park -, ten landscaped parks, 82 nature reserves and 17 protected landscapes all situated within its borders.

 

At the bank of Górne Lake, the purity, simplicity and freshness of nature lulls me into a peaceful state of reverie. It's an energising and renewing feeling, one that makes me one to linger for several days, but as the last soft ray of sun slips behind the encircling hills, it's time head back down. No need for catch-my-breath stops on the return to base camp, but I do take a moment to observe a black-and-yellow salamander scurry through the undergrowth. Base camp is a tiny wood-built bar in Duszatyński, a middle-of-nowhere kind of place that survives on serving post-hike pick-me-ups: hearty soups, crunchy snacks and lots of beer.

 

"In every square kilometer in Podkarpackie there is one hundred trees, eight beers, four people and half a doctor," jokes one of local patrons at the bar while drowning a pint of chilled draught Leżajsk beer. This statement brings out an animated conversation amongst the natives about the pleasures and difficulties of living in rural Poland. Feasting on country fare (hearty bean-and-sausage soup), in the cool country air while listening to a heated discussion amongst locals - for me, this is rural idyll.

 

Roughing Riding

 

Much like hiking, driving through Podkarpackie has all the pleasures of being close to nature with an extra element of adventure. While smaller village roads have enough potholes to create hair-raising escapades in their own right, real adventure starts when venturing off-the-beaten path with robust military-style jeeps. This is precisely the game plan of Wertepy TEAM, an adventure tour operator that launches jeep treks across the rugged Carpathian landscape of Poland and Ukraine.

 

"There are so many beautiful places in this area, many of which you will not find on the map, that one can only reach with these 4x4 jeeps," says Jacek Wojtas, operator and owner of Wertepy TEAM and Olimp, a leisure and recreation complex in Ustrzyki Dolne. Energetic, level-headed and hands-on, Wojtas is one of those types who has the savvy to come up with quick-fix solutions to outdoorsy problems. In other words, he is just the person you want leading a jeep journey through three-feet-deep mud. "In rainy weather, like today, the tour might get a bit edgy and dirty."

 

Five minutes into the "Wild East" style jeep tour and I knew exactly what he was talking about. The fleet of jeeps, in all their brawny trail-ready ruggedness and cranky driving characteristics, gouged across the overly-bumpy terrain. Sitting in the back, right above one of the wheels, I bounced and whooped around like on a theme park ride, my stomach contents rumbling around, threatening to discharge at my feet. The queasiness eased up after a while (the bouncing continued just the same) and I could finally enjoy the jagged jaunt.

 

Exploring the Ruins

 

Motoring through steep fields and muddy forest roads, we soon approach Hulskie, or the settlement that was once known as Hulskie. Founded in the 16th century near the banks of the River San, this 300-strong village of farmers and mill workers was impoverished during the interwar period and effectively de-populated by the so-called Wisła action after 1947. What is left is the remaining ramshackle ruins of a Greek Orthodox church and a square, bare-brick bell tower, now overrun by verdant vegetation. Standing gaunt against the backdrop of greenery, the hollow remains and surrounding scattering of tombstones evoke an eerie milieu, one ready made for strange happenings.

           

The next portion of the journey consists of a drive to Łopienka, another little village that no longer has a physical presence. A sizable Orthodox church is the only enduring landmark of the tiny town which was established in the mid 16th century at the foot of Łopiennik Mountain. Due to the restoration efforts of art historians Olgierd Łotoczki and Zbigniew Kaszuba, the sacred structure boasts a shiny new tin roof and a reconstructed bell tower, sturdy wood ceiling beams, colourful stain-glass windows and a makeshift altar with the icon of the Black Madonna of Częstochowa. A few steps from the church's entrance stands a sepulchral chapel, faithfully restored to its 19th century appearance. 

 

The four-wheeling proceeds into Podkarpackie's heartland as sporadic showers make the ride considerably slipperier. Long, bumpy climbs on eroded roads are followed by slipping and sliding through large mud holes with the cavalry of sport utility vehicles and my nerves really begin to fray. The forward momentum comes to a halt in Krywe, another deserted and abandoned village with a ravaged hilltop church. Poised in the middle of rolling green hills, adjacent the Holy Paraskewii church ruins, is the low-thatched cottage of Antonina and Stanisław Majsterko, the sole inhabitants of a settlement that once housed hundreds.

 

"This is a great place for city folk to get to the know the country, go for long walks and actually see and help out with farm animals," says Antonina, or Pani Tosia as she likes to be called. A petite blond-haired woman with more grit than grace, she runs the farm-turned-agrotourism-guesthouse with the help of her husband. All year round, they welcome passers-by, nature-lovers and random campers into their modest and quaint quarters, a traditional cottage fitted with basic amenities of life for the convenience of visitors. The nearest town is half-hour tractor drive away, but Krywe (as much of Podkarpackie) feels like another world, another century. "It's so beautiful and relaxing here. So you know, I really wouldn't live anywhere else."

 

Further Information

Podkarpackie Voivodship

ulica Grunwaldzka 15, Rzeszów

tel: +48 17 850 1700

www.podkarpackie.pl

 

Wertepy TEAM

ulica Strwiążyk 30, Ustrzyki Dolne

tel: +48 601 520 660

www.wertepy.com

 

Olimp

ulica Strwiążyk 28, Ustrzyki Dolne

tel: +48 13 461 1540

www.olimp.ustrzyki.pl

 

Antonina and Stanisław Majsterko

Krywe Agrotourism

Tel: +48 693 177 978

www.krywe.webpark.pl