Originally from London, Barbara and John Alaszewski had been visiting Poland for a number of years, before deciding to relocate there. They now run a successful boutique hotel in Bolesławiec in Lower Silesia. Barbara and John talk to Discover Poland, and explain what prompted them to leave London behind, and why they chose Bolesławiec.
Barbara Alaszewski explains how the couple arrived in Bolesławiec:
“I first started coming to Boleslawiec in Lower Silesia around 15 years ago when I discovered the pottery that is produced here and started to import it into England. Then, five years ago I found this wonderful, derelict old barn dating back to the 18th century, it was in need of complete restoration, but as soon as I walked in the door I could see and feel the character, and sense the atmosphere and potential of the place. I was still based in London at the time, where my husband John was working - he didn’t bat an eyelid when I came home and told him it would be a good idea if he started to learn Polish!
The old derelict barn has been now transformed into the Blue Beetroot, a boutique guesthouse. We have used traditional materials and methods in restoring the building and left as many of the original features in place as possible so as not to destroy that atmosphere that I felt when I first walked through the door. At the same time, we wanted to make the place a stylish retreat for people to relax in, with all the comforts of modern life. We feel that we have succeeded in this aim and in the process have sympathetically restored and saved an old building.
The region where we live, Lower Silesia, encapsulates everything that Poland has to offer. There are mountains in the south that form the border with the Czech Republic with stunning views and winter sports from December until April - the skiing is ideal for beginners and much better value than the better known European destinations. In the summertime hiking is very popular - it is easy to go on a hike into the Czech Republic and back.
So if you like the outdoors, there is plenty to keep you occupied from dawn until dusk. From August through to October, the woods surrounding Bolesławiec are full of mushrooms, and we can take groups out on a mushroom hunt early in the morning, teach them about the different types - the good, the bad, the indifferent and the don’t touch with a bargepole! We then bring baskets full of fresh mushrooms back to our kitchen to be prepared by pickling or drying for later use. We also arrange cooking classes in our kitchen, teaching people to make traditional Polish dishes such as Pierogis, Bigos and Zurek.
The area is also a paradise for fishing fanatics; they can fish from piers surrounding small lakes nestled among wooded sand dunes or on the two rivers in Lower Silesia, the Bobr and the Kwisa. For the less serious fishermen there are well stocked trout lakes ideal for a fun day out with children and a picnic.
Local reserves offer great opportunities to see beavers, deer, foxes, hedgehogs, red squirrels and wild boars. There is an abundance of birdlife including rare migrating species. Storks can often be observed catching frogs in the fields. There are also many rare and protected plant species in the area.
One of my lifelong passions has been horse riding, there are several riding stables nearby and we aim have our own horses and donkeys here at the Blue Beetroot very soon so I will be able to offer lessons here, we will also have a carriage to take people for rides around the woods and into town.
If cycling is more your thing, there are plenty of trails in and around Bolesławiec, and we can provide bikes, or they can be rented in the town center. A twenty minute bike ride will take you into town for a coffee and cake or those up for a longer bike ride can follow a trail about two hours to Grodziec Castle where you will feel as if you alone have discovered a secret treasure. The 850-year-old castle is perched on top of a volcanic outcrop with a jaw-dropping view. It may look deserted, but call out for the castle keeper and prepare for an extraordinary peek at Poland’s past. The child-friendly adventure includes permission to wander at will. Mr. Zennon, the castle keeper, is an avid reenactor of medieval life. He is happy to help anyone try their hand with a bow and arrow and will even organize a medieval performance with advance notice.
Most of the towns in Lower Silesia, such as Bolesławiec date back to medieval times with a central town square and remnants of the old town walls around them. Today the town squares are home to stylish boutiques and restaurants; eating out under the large umbrellas is very popular in the summer months which give the towns a continental feel.
What draws a lot of visitors to Bolesławiec is the wonderful handmade pottery made in and around the town that I mentioned earlier, why is it so amazing? Well apart from being decorative its stoneware body makes it the most functional of all ceramics for kitchen use. It’s oven proof, dishwasher proof and you can use it in the microwave, which makes it very durable. Its hard stoneware body and underglazed decoration make it perfect for everyday use as well as looking very attractive on the dresser.This stoneware pottery has been made in Boleslawiec since the 12th Century; there is a ceramics museum in the town where you can see how it has developed over the ages.
We also are very fortunate to have three of Poland's most famous artists in the region:
Mr. Borowski – he produces glass art pieces and sculptures, his studio is only 10 minutes from the Blue Beetroot. You can visit the studio and see the work in progress as well as having a go at blowing the glass for yourselves.
Miliński- a very eccentric artist, he paints and makes sculptures inspired by Polish folk figures and country people, he has a studio and gallery about half an hour away from the Blue Beetroot – he has also built a fairytale castle which houses a puppet show (it is quite bizarre!) This real life castle looks like something out of one of his pictures.
Szutter – famous for his still life paintings
The one thing that is really precious to us here is the freedom to wander in the surrounding woods and fields, little of which is fenced. It took us a quite a while to get used to the fact that you can just stop the car, roam off through fields, by lakes, anywhere and not meet another soul, only deer and wildlife Having come from a crowded city environment like London this is a real joy!”.
So what is it like to start up and run a business in Poland? John Alaszewski picks up the story:
“Well, I’d be lying if I was to say its all plain sailing and easy. Understanding and coping with the bureaucracy can be daunting and if you are considering starting a business here you will need a lot of patience as things don’t get done overnight. We have spent many happy hours sat in the various government and local authority offices. Going into these offices is really like going back to communist times, and the attitude of the staff hasn’t changed either! Trying to get even trivial things sorted can be a marathon task.
It does help us that Barbara can speak Polish. I don’t - if you are confused because of the Polish surname we took the slightly unusual step of adopting Barbara’s maiden name when we got married. If you don’t speak Polish you will need an interpreter, and the other thing is to get good advice. There’s lots of free advice here as everyone has their own opinion but not all of it is reliable.
Anyway, has it all been worth it? The answer has to be a resounding “yes”. Property and labour is still relatively better value here, not all of the skilled labour force has left for the United Kingdom, it’s still possible to find really good skilled workers and craftsman, a lot of these trades seem to have all but died out in England.
We never could have afforded to do what we have done here in Poland. We sold a three bedroom corner terrace house in London, invested the money here and now we have the Blue Beetroot – a wonderful bijou hotel and restaurant which enchants our visitors with its fairytale charm.
One of the things that we found amazing about Poland is that it has managed to keep its culture, folklore, customs and language despite hundreds of years of occupation.
The hospitality of the people is another good reason for coming here, as Polish people are very welcoming, for their guests they will put their best food and drink on the table, and they also love to share with you the beauty of their environment.
I’m sure that soon visitors from the United Kingdom and the rest of Europe will start discovering the hidden charms of unspoilt Poland, and as more people travel here, more will choose to stay – and the trickle will change into a stream and possibly more…”
For more information visit: www.bluebeetroot.com
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