Undoubtedly one of Poland’s most popular tourist hot spots, Kraków is a city that positively bristles with history, style and culture. A regular in surveys of favourite city breaks, great value getaways and top ten urban holidays - it does not disappoint.
Legend attributes Kraków’s founding to the mythical ruler Krakus, but the city’s name was not recorded until 966, before it grew to become a leading trading post by the end of the 10th century. Despite being bruised, battered and almost destroyed by successive Mongol invasions 300 years later, Kraków again came to prominence in 1364, when Casimir III founded the University of Kraków – the second oldest centre of higher learning in Central Europe. Kraków entered its Golden Age in the 15th and 16th centuries and was the capital of Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, before Sigismund III Vasa moved his government to Poland’s modern-day capital of Warsaw.
For many visitors, their first taste of Kraków is the magnificent Rynek, or Market Square. A focal point for Krakovians and the largest square in of all Europe’s medieval cities, the 13th century Rynek covers a huge 10 acres. It is home to the 16th century renaissance Cloth Hall, the 13th century gothic Town Hall Tower, the magnificent 14th century St Mary’s Basilica with its astonishing great altar and the tiny church of St Adalbert's that dates back to the 11th century. Amid the history, the Rynek is bordered by dozens of bars, restaurants and cafes where you can relax and watch the world go by. And every hour, on the hour, you’ll also be treated to the sound and spectacle of a lone trumpeter at the top of the taller of St Mary's two towers, playing the hejnal or heynal. His tune breaks off in mid-stream to commemorate a famous 13th century trumpeter, who was shot in the throat while sounding the alarm before a Mongol attack on the city. The noon-time hejnal is heard across Poland and abroad, broadcast live by Polish radio.
Unsurprisingly Kraków’s Rynek and its Old Town district were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978, one of the first inductees of its kind to the organisation’s prestigious list, and a testament to the city’s beauty and historical worth. Always the centre of Kraków life, the Rynek is a bustling, busy place throughout the year, but the real romance of the square is there for all to see at Christmas time. A picture postcard festive setting, the square hosts a wonderful Christmas market in December, offering Polish produce from the Małopolska region and from throughout Poland. Top treats are the warm oscypek smoked cheese, tasty bigos, delicious pierogi and of course mulled wine served from large barrels to keep the cold at bay.
A stone’s throw from the centre is Kazmirez, a district of Kraków that was home to the city’s Jewish population for more than 500 years and an area that has been re-discovered over the last decade. Following the systematic persecution of the Jews during World War II, the area lost much of its identity, but that hollowed-out culture is gradually being re-introduced. Kazmirez is now very much the hub of Kraków’s artsy scene, popular with students and the more bohemian Krakovians. Famous for its associations with Oskar Schindler, the area’s historic quarter is home to Jewish cemeteries and synagogues but is also home to a number of churches, bars and lively nightspots.
As Kraków continues to rediscover its proud Jewish past, its strong Catholic tradition is unmistakable. Not only is the city home to dozens of churches but it also gave Catholics worldwide one of their most influential leaders when Karol Józef Wojtyła assumed the pontificate as Pope John Paul II in 1978. Born just 50 kilometres from Krakow in Wadowice, Karol Wojtyła became the city’s archbishop in 1963 at the age of 43, before being elected pope just 15 years later. John Paul II’s place in Kraków’s history can be felt across the city as Krakovians celebrate his life through sculptures, memorials and statues dedicated to his memory.
The city is also famed for John Paul II’s favourite delicacy, a slice of Kremówki – also affectionately known as Papal cream cakes – which resemble the English custard slice. Kraków definitely has a sweet tooth and cakes, buns and sugary treats abound in the dozens of confectioners and bakeries that dot the city’s districts. And if that isn’t enough, you should visit one of Kraków’s famous hot chocolate houses like Wedel’s on the Rynek, where you can enjoy deliciously thick and creamy hot chocolate made to a traditional Polish recipe – a real winter warmer.
Unmissable Sights
After your fill of cakes, indulgent hot drinks and the fantastic tourist sights that decorate Kraków’s Rynek, a short stroll from the city’s medieval centre will take you to the stunning Wawel Castle, perched on its very own hill above the Vistula River, keeping a silent watch on the city below. During the 11th century reign of Casimir the Restorer, the Wawel Hill and Castle became the leading political and administrative centre for the Polish State, and was the royal seat until King Sigismund III Vasa decided to move his court to Warsaw in 1596. In more modern times the castle has served as a presidential palace and the residence of the Nazi governor general during World War II. A visit to the castle will also take you to within striking distance of Smok Wawelski, the famous, fire-breathing Wawel dragon.
After immersing yourself in the delights that Krakow has to offer, a short train ride will take you to Wieliczka, home of the world-famous salt mines and a must-visit. Described by an eighteenth century French traveller as being on a par with Egypt’s pyramids, the mine has been worked for over 900 years and is a labyrinthine underground city. Two hundred kilometres of passages and over 2,000 caverns make up the mine, with the two-kilometre tourist route starting 64 metres below the streets of Wieliczka. But this isn’t a trip down any old mine. Not only can you taste the salt-rich walls on your visit, but the mine is complete with numerous chapels and statues carved into the salt by artistic miners and home to a magnificent cavern decorated with wonderful carvings, including a rendition of the Last Supper and a statue of the late Pope John Paul II. In fact this underground hall is so vast that it hosts performances, classical concerts and weddings.
A darker aspect of Kraków’s recent past is the Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp, lying 75 kilometres west of the city. The sight of unspeakable horrors during the Second World War when hundreds of thousands of Jews and other “undesirables” were put to death in gas chambers at Hitler’s orders, it is now a museum remembering all who suffered and lost their lives within its confines. A visit to Kraków would not be complete without making the effort to visit one of the world’s most infamous camps and learning the human stories behind such a shameful episode in Europe’s history.
Culture
Despite its often sobering past, the 21st century Kraków bristles with culture and put simply, it is Poland’s unofficial cultural capital. Home to the country’s first university, a thriving arts scene, dozens of theatres and an eclectic music scene it was named as the European Capital of Culture by the European Union in 2000. Almost ten years later the city continues to embrace the arts and it is a great destination if you want to see the sights but also take in the local culture.
A former home of the famous Polish film director Roman Polanski, Kraków has built upon its European Capital of Culture status and is awash with events, concerts and productions attracting over seven million visitors a year. The city hosts a number of internationally-renowned annual events for all tastes including the Krakow Film Festival, the Screen Festival, the Festival of Polish Music, the Jewish Culture Festival and the International Summer Organ Festival and welcomes scores of top live bands and stage performers in all seasons. The Rynek makes a magnificent setting for a number of special events throughout the year with the always fantastic New Year’s Eve celebrations top of the list.
But if you can’t make Kraków for New Year, the good news is that it has such a depth of things to do, so many places to visit and such a wealth of history to soak up it is a fantastic destination at any time of the year.
How to Get There
By Air:
There are regular direct flights to John Paul II International Airport in Balice from Birmingham, Bristol, East Midlands, Dublin, Leeds Bradford, Liverpool, London Gatwick, Luton, Shannon and Stansted airports. Full details of the airlines flying to Kraków can be found on www.krakowairport.pl
The train is the quickest route from the airport into the centre of Kraków, taking just 16 minutes. Balice train station is 200m away from the airport terminal, though there is a regular shuttle bus. There are departures every 30 minutes. A single ticket costs PLN 6 (approx. GB£ 1.30). Alternatively, a taxi from the airport into the centre of Kraków will cost approximately PLN 50 (approx. GB£ 11). Make sure that you take one of the taxis available at the official taxi rank.
By Bus:
The main bus station for Kraków is located next to Kraków Central station, just east of the Old Town. The bus is the best way to reach destinations outside of the city, including Częstochowa, Katowice and Zakopane. For a detailed timetable, visit www.rda.krakow.pl
By Train:
Most national and international trains arrive at Kraków Central station. For a detailed timetable, visit www.pkp.com.pl
By Car:
Kraków is more or less a car-free city, and parking can be limited. If you are traveling by car, the most likely route will be the A4 motorway, which connects to the A4 Autobahn in Germany, then travels eastwards, linking
Wrocław,
Katowice,
Kraków,
Tarnów, and
Rzeszów, heading eastward to the Polish-Ukranian border.
Tourist Information
For further information, visit the City of Kraków website www.krakow.pl alternatively, the Polish National Tourist Office in London has created a special website for English speaking visitors “Why Kraków?” which can be found at www.whykrakow.com
Dental Treatment in Kraków
While a trip to the dentists is not on most people’s agenda when they visit a city, it makes sense to pay a visit to a dental clinic while you are in Kraków, as standards tend to be very high, yet the cost of treatment is often a lot less than in the United Kingdom and Ireland. Dental treatment in Poland is definitely worth looking into if you are considering cosmetic dental treatment, or dental implants as you can often save up to 60% compared to treatment at home.
A number of private dental clinics in the city - including Vita Medical, Galleria Usmiechu and Steczko Dentistry - offer consultations with English-speaking dental surgeons. Patients are advised to get in contact with clinics before they set off to Poland in order to discuss their treatment.