Text by Aiden Brisland

A famous Hanseatic port, Gdańsk has a rich history extending back over 1,000 years. Today it is Poland’s fourth largest city, capital of the Pomeranian region and principal seaport, lying on the southern edge of the Baltic Sea’s Gdańsk Bay. The city forms part of a large conurbation with the popular spa town of Sopot and the seaside resort of Gdynia, which together make up a metropolitan area known as the Tri-city or ‘Trójmiasto’, with a population of over 800,000.

The city's famous name is thought to originate from the Gdania river, the original name of the Motława branch on which the city is situated today. In common with many other Central European cities, Gdańsk has had many different names throughout its history. Known as Gyddanyzc, Kdanzk and Danceke among others in years gone by, perhaps the best-know alternate name for the city is the Germanic version, Danzig. Used by the German population as well as English speakers until the end of World War II, the city is once again known by its Polish name. But don’t be confused by this startlingly regular change of name, it simply reflects the city’s rich past and culturally diverse make-up.

Gdańsk was founded in the 980s, when a fort was built on the site that the city now occupies and in 1997 it celebrated its millennial anniversary, commemorating the day in 997 when Saint Adalbert of Prague baptized the inhabitants of the settlement on behalf of Boleslaw the Brave of Poland. Since that day in 997, Gdańsk has endured a turbulent and at times violent existence. The city’s control has passed from one power base to another over the years from Poland to the Teutonic Knights, to the Prussians and Germans and back again.

Following World War I, the newly independent Poland hoped that Gdańsk and its harbour would be placed under Polish sovereignty. However, in 1919 a census determined that the city's population was 98 per cent German, and under the terms of the Treaty of Versailles it became the Free City of Danzig – an independent city state with its external affairs largely under Polish control. The Free City had its own constitution, national anthem, parliament and government. It even issued its own stamps and currency.

All of that came to an end on 1 September 1939, when Nazi warships began to bombard the city, signalling the start of World War II. The first shots of the war were fired at Westerplatte by the SS Schleswig-Holstein and stiff Polish resistance was gradually worn down, plunging Europe into over five years of war. A monument paying tribute to the fallen now stands on the windswept headland overlooking the spot where it all began.

But despite – or perhaps because of – so many changes in the controlling elite, the city grew to become one of the Baltic’s principal ports and indeed much of its modern history revolves around the docks.

In 1970, Gdańsk was the scene of anti-regime demonstrations which led to the downfall of Poland's communist leader Władysław Gomułka, and 10 years later the Solidarity trade union movement or Solidarność was born in the city’s shipyards. The movement’s opposition to the Communist regime led to the end of Communist Party rule in 1989, and sparked a series of protests that successfully overturned the Communist governments of the former Soviet bloc. Solidarity's leader, Lech Wałęsa became Poland’s President in 1990 and Gdańsk native Donald Tusk became the country’s Prime Minister in 2007.

Sights

Gdańsk’s main sights owe much to the renaissance period and influence of the Hanseatic League, an alliance of trading cities and guilds that established and maintained a trade monopoly along the coast of Northern Europe, from the Baltic to the North Sea and inland, between the 13th and 17th centuries. The Hanse merchants and traders were wealthy men and wasted no time in displaying their opulence to others, constructing fine town houses and wonderful squares.

Most of the city’s tourist attractions lie along Long Street and Long Market, a pedestrian thoroughfare that is known as the Royal Way

and serves as the cultural heart of Gdańsk. Flanked by beautifully reconstructed 17th century-style buildings, the route is guarded at both ends by elaborate city gates and takes you past St Mary’s Church – the largest brick church in the world, the reconstructed medieval Town Hall, the menacing Torture Hall and Neptune’s fountain, a renaissance masterpiece dating from 1617.

Passing through the city’s Green Gate at the end of Long Street, you’ll find yourself on the banks of the Motlawa River. Gdańsk’s river front is a picture postcard scene of life in this port city, but it’s the medieval harbour crane that dominates the scene. Europe’s oldest crane, it was built over 550 years ago and is a reminder of the city’s close relationship with the sea. Also along the banks of the river, you can treat yourself to some of the city’s famous culinary delights and seafood specialities.

Thanks to Gdańsk’s history as a melting put for a number of cultures, it has led to the city gaining a deserved reputation for its food, with influences from across Europe and further afield. Traditional regional specialities include Kashubian potato pancakes served with sugar, cream or honey; Kashubian potato pâté made from a recipe dating back to the 18th century; Pomorskie-style duck stuffed with a pork filling; and Debrzno Sweet String or the tasty Cherry Crescent Rolls for visitors with a sweet tooth.

A walk to the northern edge of Gdańsk’s Old Town is also well worth the visit, because it’s here you’ll find the Gdańsk Shipyards. Formerly known as the Lenin Shipyards, the site is where the workers' Solidarity uprising began in the 1970s, a movement that finally won governmental recognition despite severe persecution of its members. The workers' struggle is commemorated with a huge monument and smaller plaques placed around the courtyard by the shipyard gates.

But Gdańsk isn’t all history, monuments and impressive buildings. Lying just 10 miles from the city centre, the spa town of Sopot makes for a great coastal break. The Baltic’s beaches are a world away from the often tacky Mediterranean resorts and Sopot attracts thousands of visitors every year to bathe in its waters, take time out from the hustle and bustle and relax in the great outdoors. And if you’re in the mood for a stroll by the seaside, you can always walk to the end of Europe’s oldest wooden pier.

Culture

Like many of Poland's fine cities, Gdańsk boasts a cultural heritage par excellence. Its rich history of Polish, German and self rule together with a strong Hanseatic influence have invested the city with a rich tapestry of cultural highlights. But far from looking to the past, Gdańsk is keen to embrace the future.

The city will welcome thousands of visitors in summer 2012 when the European Football Championships roll into town. Poland is a joint host for the tournament along with the Ukraine, and Gdańsk is building a new 44,000 capacity Baltic Arena. Construction on the project began in 2008 and the finished design will represent amber, a precious resin that has long been extracted along the Baltic coast.

Away from the lure of football and 2012, the city’s calendar is packed with music, theatre and maritime events and - come rain or shine - there’s always plenty to do in the Tri-city area. International music stars often wow audiences in the city while classical concerts are par for the course during the Gdańsk Musical Summer. Other annual events include the International Festival of Street Theatre – a surprising, comical, often surreal event where the lines between actor and audience are blurred, and Sail Gdańsk which forms part of an international Baltic regatta and sees the city’s bay packed with magnificent sailing ships.

And for visitors interested in history, St Dominic’s Fair is a must. One of the most prestigious events in Gdańsk, it stretches all the way back to 1260, when Pope Alexander IV granted the Dominican monks the right to hold a fair in the city. It’s one of the largest events of its kind in Europe and for 23 days from the last Saturday in July the city plays host to merchants and artisans from all over Europe.

A city that enjoys a largely unique history in Europe and reflects its rich past with aplomb, Gdańsk is a wonderful destination for anyone looking to relax, unwind and take in the sights of one of Poland’s most impressive cities.

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