Text by Alison Hope

There are many reasons why Kraków has become the fascinating city that we know and love today; as well as being the capital of Poland and seat of Polish kings for many centuries, it was an international trading centre during the Middle Ages, attracting merchants from all over the world. The city also became a significant academic centre, with artistic talent and pioneers from the fields of science and technology moving to Kraków from other parts of Europe and beyond. The city’s many historic buildings and monuments are a testament to this unique legacy, as is the spirit of Kraków, which continues to be considered the academic and cultural hub of Poland.

Having been the seat of Polish kings for over 500 years, Wawel Hill is arguably one of Kraków’s most famous landmarks, and quite possibly the most visited site in Poland. A gentle ascent up the hill provides some stunning views of the city and a panoramic view of the Vistula River. At the top of Wawel Hill is the Royal Palace: once the royal residences, the chambers of the palace are now a popular visitor attraction – visit stately rooms, view an extensive collection of Oriental art, military trophies, Flemish tapestries and archaeological remains. Also within the grounds of Wawel Hill is Wawel Catherdral and the Royal Tombs, crypts containing royal sarcophagi, and the large “Sigimund” bell which only peals to commemorate significant events in Kraków and in Poland. Unless you are on a whistle-stop tour of the city, you could easily spend an entire day on Wawel Hill.

Beware of the Dragon!

One of the city’s most notorious residents is the Dragon of Wawel Hill, who – according to Polish folklore – lived in a cave under Wawel Hill, on the banks of the Vistula River. One of the best-loved tales of the dragon takes place during the reign of King Krakus, after whom the city is named: The dragon would cause damage and destruction across the region, killing people and devouring livestock. While there are many versions of the tale, most involve the fact that the dragon was particularly fond of devouring young girls, and could only be appeased by the townsfolk sacrificing a young girl every month, leaving each one at the edge of his cave. Keen to put an end to the sacrifice of the town’s young girls, King Krakus offered his beautiful daughter’s hand in marriage to anyone who could defeat the dragon. In spite of the attempts of brave knights and great warriors from far and wide, the dragon remained undefeated, until a poor cobbler’s apprentice accepted the challenge. He filled a lamb with sulphur and placed it at the edge of the dragon’s cave. When the dragon ate it, he became overcome by a tremendous thirst that no amount of water could quell, and after drinking half of the water from the Vistula River, eventually exploded. And true to the form most folk tales, the young apprentice married the King’s daughter. The Dragon of Wawel Hill is remembered today - a plaque commemorating his defeat can be found in Wawel Catherdral, and the dragon’s cave under the castle is popular with visitors to Kraków.

The Market Square – Centre of International Trade

One of the most visible reminders of Kraków’s history as a centre of international trade is the Market Square, which was laid out in 1257. Occupying a space of 200 square metres, it remains one of the largest market squares in Europe. The Sukiennice, otherwise known as Cloth Hall or Draper’s Hall, is perhaps the city’s most recognisable sights, which frequently appears on postcards of the city. It is at the Sukiennice, where travelling merchants would meet to barter and trade – during the 15th century, exotic products from the East, including spices, silk, leather and wax would be imported into Poland, while Polish products such as lead, textiles and salt from the nearby Wieliczka salt mine would be exported worldwide. Today, the Sukiennice contains numerous market stalls, where visitors can buy local crafts, including amber jewellery and wood-carvings.

In order to ensure the peace and security of its inhabitants, Kraków was fortified, and surrounded by a moat and a double belt of ramparts, which featured numerous towers and several gates, which were constructed in 1285, however as the city expanded over the centuries, the ramparts were left to dilapidate, and were eventually pulled down. By the early 1800s, most of the city ramparts and their towers had been pulled down, and the moat was filled in. You can however still see a small section of this fortification today, as the ramparts surrounding the Floriańska Gate and Barbican have been preserved. During the middle ages, powerful brick-built churches also played a considerable role in defending the city.

The splendour of bygone times is still very visible in Kraków today, especially in the carefully preserved and highly decorated tenement houses in the narrow streets surrounding the Market Square, such as Floriańska, Grodzka, Bracka and Kanoniczna. To get an impression of what the interior of a 19th century bourgeois tenement house, visit the Hipolitów tenement house at no. 3 Plac Mariacki, a division of the Historical Museum of the City of Kraków.

Kazimierz – Jewish Kraków

No visit to Kraków is complete without a visit to Kazimierz, the Jewish part of the city, which is characterised by a network of narrow streets and an abundance of markets, small tenements, synagogues and kirkuts (Jewish cemeteries). Following the tragedy that was the Second World War and the extermination of Jews by Nazi invaders, Kazimierz was deserted and fell into desolate ruin over the years that followed. It was not until the 1980s that Kazimierz was given a new lease of life: having regained their property, many Jewish families set about renovating and restoring houses that had once belonged to their parents or grandparents.

 Today, Kazimierz is at the heart of of Jewish culture – it is the focus of the world-famous Jewish Culture Festival, which takes place in Kraków every summer, although there are many Jewish festivals and events taking place throughout the year, including exhibitions, lectures and performances. Take a stroll along the narrow streets and you will find an abundance of cafés and restaurants that pay homage to the Jewish heritage of Kazimierz, and you can often catch a performance of klemzer music.

The fact that Kraków has for centuries been attracting creative and artistic talent from all disciplines is still evident in the city today. The oldest theatre in Kraków , the Heleny Modrzejewska Stary Theatre, dates as far back as the late 18th century, while the J. Słowacki Theatre, which was built in the early 19th century, was inspired by the Paris Opera. There are currently over 20 repertoire theatres in Kraków, as well as a number of smaller stages in atmospheric cellars, cafés and industrial units, which are the venue for countless theatre groups. The arts are not restricted to being indoors – during the summer months; you can catch exhibitions and performances outdoors, in parks and gardens.
There are over 30 museums in Kraków, the most significant being the State Collections of Art at the Royal Wawel Castle, the National Museum with a large collection of Polish and international paintings and the Czartoryskich Museum which houses the famous painting of "Lady with a weasel" by Leonardo da Vinci.

You don’t have to visit an art gallery, museum or theatre to get a feel for the city’s culture and history – simply take to the streets, and keep an eye out for monuments and plaques that commemorate numerous people and historical events. The best known include a monument to Adam Mickiewicz, considered to be Poland’s greatest poet from the Romantic era, in the Market Square, the Grunwald monument erected on the 500th anniversary of the battle of Grunwald, and also monuments dedicated to the astronomer, Nicolaus Copernicus, milliary leader, Tadeusz Kościuszko, and physician, Józef Dietl, all of whom had connections to Kraków.

It is not only the bricks and mortar of city that makes Kraków an attractive place to visit – it is also the people who live there. Kraków is indeed a very beautiful city, and it is difficult not to be inspired by the narrow streets and Gothic and Renaissance architecture. Nevertheless, it is important to bear in mind that the city is kept alive by the people who live and work there, who continue the city’s traditional cultural festivals as well as initiate some new ones, which in recent years have included Misteria Paschalia, Sacrum-Profanum, Museum Night, Polish Music Festival – a celebration of Polish music performed by some of the world's greatest artists, and the Drama of Nations Festival. As well as the well-known international festivals, visitors can also catch live music pretty much any night of the week – from jazz to rock, from dance to folk at numerous bars, cafés and nightclubs across the city.

While there is no shortage of ways to spend time in Kraków, the city also makes an excellent base for two of Poland’s most significant places of interest, both of which require an entire day in order the make a visit worthwhile. The more tragic of the two is the Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial and Museum in Oświęcim, which is about an hour’s drive from Kraków. A visit to the Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial and Museum is indeed very sobering, however it provides unique insight into the atrocities of the terrible genocide that took place in the middle of the last century.

Just less than an hour’s drive from Kraków are Wieliczka Salt Mines, which are visited by approximately 1.2 million people each year, and have been a part of UNESCO's First World List of Cultural and Natural Heritage for over 30 years. The mine has a depth of 327 meters, and is over 300 km long. Visitors to the mine will see less than 1% of the entire length of the mine’s passages, though they will be treated to sculptures carved in the salt, the first of which were fashioned by miners, though contemporary sculptors have since added their own creations. There are several escorted tours to both the Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial and Museum and the Wieliczka Salt Mine, many of which have departures from the centre of Kraków. Details of these tours can be found in hotels and in the tourist information office in the city centre.

While it is only to be expected that Discover Poland has a soft spot for Kraków, the city regularly ranks highly in popularity polls. Orbitz, the travel portal, awarded Kraków the title, “Most Fashionable City to Visit in 2007” and in 2008, readers of the Guardian named Kraków in their the top three city destinations in the world, just behind Sydney, Australia and ahead of San Francisco in the USA. As more and more people discover Kraków, we are certain that the city will continue to top polls and win prestigious accolades for years and years to come.

Somewhere to Eat

Whether you fancy dining out in style, or grabbing a quick bite to eat in laidback surroundings, Kraków’s got it all!

Dinner at the Michelin-recommended Wierzynek Restaurant is more than just a meal – it is an entire experience, and will almost certainly be one of the highlights of your visit to Kraków. Two 17th century townhouses on the edge of the Market Square have been carefully preserved and converted into this luxury restaurant with elegant interiors which provide the perfect backdrop for traditional Polish cuisine which has been prepared under the supervision of executive chef, Marcin Sołtys. Guests can expect traditional dishes such as veal haunch marinated in white wine, suckling pig marinated and stuffed, and beef roulade served with buckwheat groats and warm beetroot salad, and there is a tasting menu that starts at PLN 185 (approximately GB£ 37.90).The restaurant has attracted many high-profile diners over the years, including King Juan Carlos of Spain, President François Mitterand of France, and the film director, Steven Spielberg. For further information, visit www.wierzynek.com.pl

Another of the city’s Michelin-recommended restaurants is Wentzl, which has become something of a Kraków institution. Founded by John Wentzl in 1792, the restaurant has consistently delighted generation after generation of diners with its beautifully presented traditional Polish dishes, such as rabbit stewed in horseradish sauce with lightly apple-scented beetroot and marinated herring rosettes on a bed of crispy onion with apples and sour cream. Dishes are complimented by an extensive range of wines. For further information, visit www.wentzl.pl

Kraków couldn’t be any further from the sea, however you can still enjoy fresh fish and seafood at Farina Restaurant, a stylishly renovated tenement in the Old Town. The atmosphere is very chic and lively, however it is the innovative dishes prepared by head chef, Monika Turasiewiecz that attracts diners to Farina Restaurant – in particular, the 12 different mussel dishes. For further information, visit www.farina.krakow.pl

Kuchnia i Wino, or Cuisine and Wine, is the perfect place to soak up the buzzing atmosphere of the Kazimierz. Dishes are largely Mediterranean and Polish inspired, though there is more than a nod to Jewish cuisine. For further information, visit www.kuchniaiwino.eu

Italian cusine is always popular, and if you fancy taking a break from traditional Polish cuisine, Aqua e Vino is a great place to enjoy classic Italian dishes expertly prepared using only the freshest ingredients, and complimented by carefully selected Italian wines. The restaurant has an adjoining lounge-bar, which makes it the perfect place to relax and catch up with friends. For further information, visit www.aquaevino.pl

Looking for somewhere that is a bit quickly but won’t blow the budget? U Babci Maliny, which means “Granny Raspberry” is a delightful basement restaurant that is popular with locals and visitors alike, who come to fill up on affordable Polish staples, such as hearty meat dishes and smoked cheese. For further information, visit www.kuchniaubabcimaliny.pl

Somewhere to Stay

Whether you are an aficionado of luxury hotels, or prefer to make yourself at home in an historic town-house, there is no shortage of places to stay in Kraków, whatever your budget or taste.

Kraków’s Main Square is one of the most iconic sights in the city, though there is only one hotel situated on it. The Wentzl Hotel, which is a beautiful 17th century tenement. It has been carefully restored and is now a luxury hotel, adjoining the Michelin-recommended Wentzl Restaurant. Each of the 18 rooms have been individually designed to capture the essence of 17th century Kraków at the same time as providing facilities that one would expect of a luxury hotel, including air conditioning, mini-bar, telephone, flat screen television, home theatre, coffee and tea-making facilities, in-room safe, complimentary internet connection, bathrobes and cosmetic mirrors. For further information, visit www.wentzl.pl

Located close to the main railway station, the Old Time Hotel is a 19th century townhouse comprising of 24 rooms, each designed with more than a nod to art nouveau – look out for ornate period furniture and artwork. Rooms are also equipped with satellite television, complimentary internet connection, telephone and radio. The central location makes the Old Time Hotel is an excellent base for exploring the city’s many historic sights. For further information, visit www.oldtimehotel.pl

Stay right in the heart of the Kazimierz, the atmospheric Jewish quarter of Kraków, and explore places of interest by day, and enjoy the lively nightlife in the district’s vibrant bars, clubs and late night cafés by night. The Kazimierz Hotel is a comfortable three star hotel with 35 rooms, each with en suite bathroom and shower and television. For further information, visit www.hk.com.pl

Perfect for the business traveller, Hotel Sympozjum is a modern and spacious hotel on the edge of the city, with convenient access to the A4 motorway and the main roads to Rzeszów and Zakopane. There are 80 rooms in total, including elegant suites and rooms that have been specially adapted for the disabled. The hotel prides itself in providing everything that you could possibly need on a visit to Kraków, including the hotel’s restaurant, which is the perfect place to meet up with colleagues and clients. Hotel Sympozjum is also an ideal venue for a conference - its conference rooms are equipped with the latest audio visual equipment, and will accommodate events from a small gathering to up to a large-scale event for 600 delegates. Whether you’ve spent all day in meetings or visiting the city’s historic sights, head to the hotel’s Crystal Spa where you can relax, unwind and allow yourself to be pampered. For further information, visit www.sympozjum.com.pl

Hotel Krakus, in the South-Western outskirts of the city, is the perfect choice for anyone visiting Kraków on a budget. This clean and functional two-star hotel has 199 en-suite rooms, each equipped with a television, radio and complimentary internet connection. Single rooms start from PLN 180 (approx. GB£ 37), making it outstanding value for money. For further information, visit www.hotel-krakus.com.pl

Want to feel more like a local? Why not rent an apartment rather than stay in a hotel? Muzyczny Kraków, which translates as “Musical Kraków” is a collection of luxury apartments, just off the Main Square - your address while you are staying in the city. Each of these spacious apartments has its own character and “musical identity”, for instance the Ada Sari apartment, which has a warm orange interior, is named after the famous opera singer who once stayed there. The Jam Session apartment gets its name from the harmony of the brown and beige colour scheme. For further information, visit www.muzyczny-krakow.com

MM Apartments also has a great range of self-catering apartments in different locations around the city, which are available to rent – even if you are only staying for a couple of nights. For further information, visit www.pokojekrakow.pl

 

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