Wild Wolves

Text by Radoslaw Sawicki and Mariusz Duchewicz

In some parts of Poland, you can still encounter a large number of ecosystems and species, which have long ago disappeared from many European countries or are just barely present. Wild nature is therefore one of Poland’s most valuable contributions to the enlarged European Union. We invite you for a journey to regions of Poland spared from civilization, with their unique animals.

The wolf is a mythical animal, ever-present in the beliefs and culture of all European nations. In arts it has been displayed often as a symbol of threat, evil, dark and wild forces, but also independence, beauty, power and wisdom. People used to try to gain this animal’s abilities through magical shamanic rituals, wearing the wolf tusk or its skin. In many cultures there is also a myth about a human changing into a wolf (werewolf). At first, the image of a wolf was not completely negative. Wolves’ independence and power were admired. There are stories about wolves caring for people, such as the one about the founders of Rome, Romulus and Remus.

Christianity associated the wolf with the devil, contrasting its animal characteristics with Jesus, symbolized by a lamb. This affected for many centuries the way the wolf has been perceived in European culture. This dark image did not make the existence of wolves easy. No other predator has been hated so much by humans. The wolf was persecuted with passion in all possible ways: shooting, poisoning, and killing cubs. Its numbers have also been reduced due to destruction of its natural habitats – cutting down forests. The old Europe covered with dense forests and wetlands became the Europe of large cities, expressways, airports and golf fields. There is little place for the wolf here.

Don’t be Afraid of the Wolf!

Thanks to solid scientific research the wolf has been cleaned of its alleged vicious tendencies and the species has been recognized as an important element of nature. The fact that wolves are good at keeping their prey in good condition has gained awareness and respect – they eliminate the weakest, old and sick animals. This way only the healthiest and strongest of the animals hunted by wolves get the chance to reproduce and spread their genes.

Strong wolves which challenge the leader of the pack leave it to live alone or create a new herd and mark their own territory. Therefore, there will never be too many wolves in one place.

The Wolf Family

Wolves live in pack of 5-8, though even up to 20. The pack is led by the strongest pair – an alpha male and an alpha female) which controls all the others. The pack hunts together for wild animals such as deer, looks after the cubs and patrols an area of approximately 200-300 square kilometres. What’s interesting is the fact that the entire pack follows the traces of the leader so perfectly that it’s hard to tell the number of specimens in a group.
The presence of wolves in a certain area can be confirmed by their traces, excrements or characteristic howls. In Poland, the largest number of wolf packs can be found in the Białowieża Forest and Bieszczady Mountains.

Protect the Wolf

Thanks to scientists and environmentalists, in 1998 the wolf gained the status of a protected species, threatened with extinction. Currently in Poland there are about 200 wolves, however, there are many hunters and shepherds who demand permission to shoot these animals again. Luckily, thanks to environmental education less and less people believe in the Little Red Riding Hood story nowadays – most Poles believe that the wolf should stay protected.

Mazuria – Land of A Thousand Lakes

Poland is made up of regions differing in history and ethnography, and it is impossible to get to know the country and its people without understanding the different aspects of it. Mazuria is an exceptionally beautiful region of Poland.

Mazuria is one of the north-eastern regions besides Warmia, Suwalszczyzna and Podlasie. The region used to be part of Prussia, and its cultural identity emerged during the time of the reformation. Most inhabitants of the region, contrary to the rest of the country, are Protestants. The native Mazurians also use a unique dialect which may be hard to understand by Poles from other regions.

Mazuria is referred to as the “land of a thousand lakes” and also the “green lungs of Poland” thanks to its pristine nature and absence of industry. The numerous lakes and rivers connect into water trails perfect for kayaking and sailing. The largest and deepest lakes of Poland can be found here: for instance Śniardwy, with an area of 113.84 km² and depth of 23.4 meters, or Mamry with an area of 104.4 km² and depth of 43.8 meters. Marshes and peatland also contribute to the special landscape and atmosphere of the region. The region boasts a great wealth of animal and plant species. The animal world is represented by, among others, pond turtle, common viper, black grouse, capercaillie, crane, golden eagle, moose, beaver. An encounter with a wolf or lynx - certainly an experience to remember - is not uncommon.

All this provided good reasons to designate protected areas in the region: the Mazurian Landscape Park of 40000 hectares, as well as 114 nature reserves, among them Czerwone Bagno, Rogoźno Zamek and Cisowy Jar. There have also been plans to create the Mazurian National Park. This idea however, though supported by biologists, is fiercely opposed by the state administration and the foresters' lobby.

Because of the breathtaking landscape and natural values, Mazuria is a great place to spend free time. Every year thousands of Poles from different parts of the country as well as many foreign visitors spend their holiday exploring the Mazurian forests and lakes. It’s a perfect destination for hikers, cyclists, anglers and water sports enthusiasts. Nature lovers can enjoy bird-watching and the pristine wild nature. After a busy day, visitors can relax in one of the many tourist farms which guarantee an escape from the hustle and bustle of the cities, and enjoy a homely atmosphere and fantastic local cuisine. All this is surrounded by magnificent nature and breathtaking landscapes.

Wild Poland Foundation supports the plans for the Mazurian National Park. The establishing of a national protection program will guarantee the preservation of the unique animal and plant species. It will also encourage a controlled and responsible tourism in this precious region. 

Explore Poland on Horseback

Text by Katarzyna Gil

Fed up with life in the fast lane? Had enough of the hustle and hustle and bustle? Time to take a break and seek adventures in the saddle.

Mountain horse-riding tourism centres are the perfect place to get close to nature, and explore medieval castles. The Organisation for Mountain Horse-Riding Tourism has marked out many trails that lead through some of the most magnificent parts of Poland, taking in stunning mountain scenery as well as historical sights. Making this type of trip on horseback has been made easier and safer by the fact that there are local equestrian centres along the route, where accommodation can be provided for both the horse and rider. Many of these equestrian centres are affiliated by the Polish Tourist Country-Lovers' Society (PTTK) that guarantees the quality of services. Each equestrian centre has its own base with stables, horses and an experienced guide who has in-depth knowledge of riding the region, who leads tour groups.

The PTTK has marked out four popular riding trails that lead across several mountain ranges:across the Beskidskie Mountains

across the Sudeckie Mountains
across the Świętokrzyskie Mountains
across Jurassic landscapes

With a total length of 400 km the longest is the trail that crosses the Beskidskie Mountains. This involves 14 days in the saddle, but the experience is worth every minute. The track leads through dense forests that are unpopulated – the riders in the group may not encounter human faces other than their own; however there will be opportunities to spot protected species, including bears, deer, lynx, wild birds, wild boar and wolves.

The trail that crosses the Sudeckie Mountains is 350 km long, and a challenging ride for both horse and rider due to the stony terrain, however it is still an exhilarating experience. The track takes in many historical sights, including the Basilica at Wambierzyce and monuments dedicated to the craft of weaving.

Also 350km long, the trail that crosses the Świętokrzyskie Mountains is characterised by warm memorials and small villages that have kept many long-forgotten Polish traditions. The landscape is truly breath-taking, and takes in views of the Łysica mountain summit and also the Siepraw and Zagnańsk reservoirs.

The trail that takes in the Jurassic landscapes should not be overlooked. It is perfect for riding, as the ground is soft and sandy, and also takes in unique landscapes, including large limestone rocks from the Jurassic era, medieval castles and the Błędowska Desert – an environmental phenomenon. Also keep an eye out for game, including beavers, hare, roe deer, red deer, wild birds and wild boar. All of these factors make this trail one of the most attractive places to ride in southern Poland.

When it comes to exploring a country on horse-back, Poland is an exceptional destination, where many of the trails are state-owned, and provide endless opportunities for long distance trekking. Different terrains and a constantly changing landscape ensure that riding in Poland is an experience that you will never forget.

What are you waiting for? Time to saddle up!

Hiking in the Hills

Text by Andrew Rabenda

Poland is known for its various, tourist/backpacker-friendly, hiking regions. The diversity of terrain and travel locations offer anything from casual sight-seeing to the exploration of beautiful and more rugged hiking trails. However, you don’t have to be an experienced hiker to enjoy the multitude of trails, spanning a large portion of Poland. Each trail, from the simplest to the most complicated, is usually well marked (trail markings and beaten paths) and is safe to travel.

Poland has a rich cultural history that includes a high regard and pride for the various mountain regions. As a new tourist or even experienced hiker hoping to get the most out of your visit, it is best advised to employ the help of a local guide as they are exceptionally knowledgeable, experienced, not overly expensive and most important of all, professionally trained. As with many other professions, Guides take pride in their work and are very passionate about what they do. Guides have to gain years of direct, first-hand, rigorous, experience before they are allowed to lead individuals and groups. Guides also acquire a range of safety and medical skills. Whether it’s a simple bus ride or a week-long expenditure, a guide will always help you get the most out of your visit while teaching you about the particular location. What’s extraordinary about Poland’s regions is the fact that you aren’t limited to the mountains. There are trails in nearly every region of the country, each offering a new experience and friendly atmosphere. The most important thing to remember is that Poland is always open to adventurers, explorers, casual hikers, and leisurely strollers. The atmosphere is friendly and the views are awe-inspiring. The calm of the mountains and forests coupled with the expansiveness of the numerous regions and trails are sure to breathe a new life and sense of peace into any person. Long after you leave Poland, you will definitely remember and cherish your experience. 

Paddles Up in North Eastern Poland

Text By Andrew Usowicz

Andrew Usowicz of Frontier Poland explains why North Eastern Poland explains why the lakes and rivers of North Eastern Poland are perfect for canoeing.

North Eastern Poland may not initially strike you as a destination for outdoor pursuits, however when you think of the Białowieża National Park with its primeval forest and free ranging bison, and the Biebrza National Park which is Poland’s largest National Park, you may begin to realise that the region is truly exceptional. It truly is a natural playground for those who enjoy the great outdoors: the region is divided by Poland’s largest forest, three National Parks, numerous landscape parks, hundreds of lakes and criss-crossed by waterways which flow for hundreds of kilometres. It has one of the highest populations of European mammals, including bison, wolves, lynx and many others.

The royal town of Augustów is well-known as the centre of lowland canoeing, and is probably one of the best locations in Europe to go canoeing. It is located at the intersection of lakes, rivers and canals - paradise for those who enjoy messing about on the water in canoes, kayaks, boats and anything else that floats. Don’t worry if you have never been canoeing before, as there are plenty of waterways which are suitable for a complete beginner.

The Augustów heritage canal, which is older than the Panama and Suez, began life in 1825 and was finally completed in1839, its function was to transport goods to the Baltic ports without paying duty to the Prussians. The canal joins the mighty River Nemunas which now flows through Lithuania and Belarus, and the River Narew in Poland which eventually joins Poland’s largest river, the romantic Vistula. So if you ever feel the inclination, and are feeling particularly energetic, you could end up at the Baltic!

A canal flows through the centre of Augustów and is ideal for beginners - no rapids or white water, and no rocks, though do keep an eye out for the beavers. One of the most attractive day trips is along the canal on the beaver trail, where you will almost certainly come across many a felled tree as you paddle into the depth of the Polish countryside with meadows and forest either side. The lock keepers cottage provides a picturesque setting for the end of the trip.

Continuing this trip downstream, the canal flows into the River Biebrza, and you can paddle on through the historic and recently renovated lock at Dębowo. The River Biebrza, known as the queen of rivers in this region, flows through the Biebrza National Park and is responsible for creating the water meadows, which provide habitats for over 200 varieties of birds – and even elk. One of the most spectacular times of year to paddle on the Biebrza is during the spring floods, when the river basin becomes a delta, and thousands of hectares are flooded, making it possible to paddle across fields. This unique feature only lasts for a few weeks each year, but it is to be highly recommended. At the height of summer, the river becomes clogged up with weed so paddling can be difficult and it is not advisable for beginners.

The River Czarna Hancza has its source at Poland’s deepest lake, Lake Hancza (108 meters deep). It meanders slowly through the Puszcza Augustowska, Poland’s largest forest complex. Along this route, there are numerous hostels and campsites, making it ideal for the more adventurous beginner or for families. The river eventually joins the Augustów canal which takes us back into the centre of Augustów. If you are adventurous and energetic, then you may wish to start paddling on this river which also flows onwards through the Wigry National Park and carry on via Augustów, then end up in the Biebrza National Park.

There are also rivers which require a higher level of experience and perseverance, such as the Celtic route, which takes you along the River Rospuda, and through the famous Rospuda Valley. Nearby, there is a village called Scotland, where Scottish migrants chose to settle, and make their mark. Each year a Celtic festival takes place in what is left of the historic palace to celebrate the village’s heritage. The river can be very shallow and narrow at times, however the high sided forested valleys make it well worth it as it is a very attractive route with the added bonus of paddling through wild territory. Be aware that in all probability you will come across several obstacles -those pesky beavers get everywhere, which means that you will have to get out of the canoe and negotiate your way around fallen trees. The river eventually flows into the Augustów lakes.

The most suitable type of boat to hire for this kind of trip is an open style Canadian canoe, which has a keel and comfortable seats. The keel is important as it allows you to keep the boat in a straight line, and also allows the canoe can pick up a decent speed on straight stretches of water. Webbed seats are much better than solid ones, as those made of wood or plastic can be rather uncomfortable after a couple of hours. Classic style wooden paddles have the advantage that they are more comfortable to hold and can be used to push off obstacles. With plastic or aluminium paddles, there is always a danger of them breaking off, and there’s nothing worse than been up the creek without a paddle!

If you are planning a longer trip, then barrels and dry bags are to be recommended, as these keep everything dry food, clothes, sleeping bags, mobile phones, laptops – you’d be amazed at what some people pack! Waterproof maps also come in handy.

When planning a canoeing trip, it is always advisable to look for a company that employs an English speaker and - most importantly - somebody who has paddled down the routes and that you plan to take. Above all, first-hand knowledge of the region and its waterways is crucial. Safety is also of paramount importance: if nobody asks whether you can swim, than simply walk away. Likewise if you don’t get a demonstration of how to use the boat or an explanation as to why you should wear a buoyancy aid do the same. There should be buoyancy aids to fit everyone, from small children to large adults, and they should be in good condition. Most companies should transport you and your canoes, and also pick you up. The Augustów Canoe Centre was set up by a British national who can provide you with all the equipment required, along with a wealth of knowledge and experience. Bikes are also available for hire. The Augustów Canoe Centre is located next to the river in the centre of the town, for more information please visit www.canoe-poland.com and www.frontierpoland.com

How do you get to Augustów? By arriving in Lithuania. The airport in Kaunus is only a two hour drive away, and the roads are uncongested – and thanks to the Schengen agreement, you don’t even have to stop at the border. If you are travelling from Warsaw, the train journey to Augustów takes approximately four hours, or alternatively transport can usually be arranged to come and collect you from the airport. Worried about your carbon footprint? You can travel by direct train from Amsterdam to Warsaw - couchettes and sleepers are available and once the train crosses the Polish border, you can treat yourself to a decent breakfast in the dining car. There is a variety of hotels and smaller guest houses, many of which located in the town centre.

Augustów comes alive during the Summer months, and there is always an event or a festival taking place - from jazz festivals to river carnivals. There is always something happening and no shortage of activities. For the more active, there is waterskiing – arguably some of the best waterskiing facilities in Poland. If you prefer to stay on dry land, there are also plenty of activities, including cycling and pony-trekking.

Out of season, tranquillity returns to the area, the rivers and forests breathe a deep sigh of relief, however they will still welcome those who feel at one with nature and can truly appreciate the wide open spaces without the hustle and bustle of hordes. Enjoy the great outdoors in North East Poland.

Pedalling Across Poland

Text by Neal Plowright

Looking for adventure and whatever comes your way? If you’ve ever dreamt of riding through unspoilt landscapes scattered with charming villages, medieval castles and spiritual sanctuaries, Poland could help you fulfil your dreams.

My first visit to with Poland was in 2001. I was on four-week cycling holiday and fell in love with the scenery, pace of life and old world charm. So much so that I moved to Wrocław, the capital of Lower Silesia.

Eight years later, the Polish countryside, brimming with awe-inspiring natural attractions, remarkable buildings, and mostly traffic-free roads still astounds me. It’s not only the beauty of the Sudeten Mountains, their rolling green and yellow foothills, the deep blue lakes, the Odra River, and the Kłodzko Valley that fill your senses with unique sights, sounds, and colours. It’s also the numerous castles (ruined and renovated) to explore, the Cistercian monasteries for contemplation, the historical churches of peace, the rejuvenating health spas, plus the Gothic and Baroque treasures of a country which is largely untouched by tourism.

Poland is sure to satisfy your desire for adventure, relaxation, exploration, and surprise. And I can’t think of a better way to experience Poland than by bike. An 83-year-old Polish cyclist once told me: ‘If you are going for a long ride with others, make sure there is an interesting destination or highlight or two along the way.’ I’ve provided just three of the unmissable ones below.

The Great Mazurian Lakes

The Great Mazurian Lakes is an area of renowned beauty. It's a landscape of gentle hills, cool lakes, rustic farmhouses, quiet villages, and swathes of tranquil forest.
In addition to these natural wonders, you can explore the vestiges of Teutonic, Prussian, German and Polish architectural legacies. The infamous ‘Wolf's Lair’ – Hitler's main headquarters – is one of the more surprising highlights. In the tiny hamlet of Gierloz there is the eerie sight of 18 hectares of a partially-destroyed Nazi complex. Hitler's series of bunkers with 2.5m thick walls were designed to blend in with the landscape of idyllic forests and lakes.

The scenery is breathtaking and the cycling is superb as we twist and turn through the unspoiled ‘green lungs’ of Poland which are rich in blackberries, raspberries, wild strawberries and mushrooms. There are many black storks, eagles and snipes, and if you keep your eyes peeled you may even see lynx, elk, stag, wolf, fox or wild boar!

On the way to Mikolajki, we pass through the village of Gizycko and stop for a closer look at the 19th century Boyen Fortress, one of a network of 14 forts which comprise the Baltic Fort Route.

Turning our handlebars south for 50km of rivers, lakes, marshes and wildlife, we head for the Luknajno Reserve where Europe's largest community of wild swans live. If you keep an eye out you may also see a 'tarpan' which is the cousin of the now extinct wild horse.

The land of 3000 lakes and the wildlife, built history, and warm people leave us with an indelible impression of the natural, historical, and cultural significance of a region which is virtually unknown. The Mazurian Lakes does ‘indelible’ very well.

Gdańsk, the Baltic Sea and the Teutonic Knights

Gdańsk, home of the Solidarity movement, once a member of the Hanseatic League, is the largest city of the Kashubian ethnic group. It’s come a long way from its origins as a fishing village in the 9th century and is now the jewel of a region which ranges from the sand dunes of Slowinski National Park to the ancient shores of the Vistula River and the tranquillity of the Zarnowieckie Lake.

Add the gothic old town of Toruń, the intact fortified medieval walls of Chełmno, the 15th century Basilica in Pelplin, and the magnificent Malbork Castle into the mix and you have a trail of amazing memories, unforgettable cycling, and remarkable sights to discover.

Where better to start your adventure than in Hel? The Hel Peninsula is a sliver of sand which stretches some 35kms to the west of Gdansk. The timeless Kashubian town of Hel is not all fire and brimstone; with the sea breeze at your back, and the scent and the sound of the sea, you just can't help but relax.

We veer away from the coast and head south into the heart of the Pomerania region. We are in the medieval lands of the Teutonic Knights and traces of their existence are scattered throughout. An extraordinary example of the Teutonic legacy is the 14th century castle in Bytów.

Next, we visit the stunning medieval town of Chełmno; whose fortified walls, five Gothic cathedrals, and Renaissance town hall must have been designed to impress.

The Hanseatic port of Toruń is a special highlight. A Slavic settlement since 1100 BC, a Teutonic outpost since the 13th century, the birthplace of Nicolas Copernicus in the 15th century, and UNESCO World Heritage listed in the 20th century, Toruń will captivate you with its Gothic charm and off-the-beaten-track character.

Another astonishing day beckons as we head towards the majesty of Malbork Castle. This colossal fortified castle is Europe's largest Gothic fortress. We spend a few hours exploring its multiple defensive walls, labyrinth of rooms and chambers, and exquisite architectural detail and decoration. The late afternoon sun on the 600-year-old red brickwork is indescribable.

UNESCO highlights in Lower Silesia

The region of Lower Silesia is one of largely unrecognized beauty. The region's capital, Wroclaw, is replete with Gothic churches, Flemish-style Renaissance mansions, Viennese Baroque palaces and chapels, tranquil parks, gardens, rivers and a vibrant cultural scene.

Outside Wroclaw you enter the region’s playground. The gently rolling landscape is full of ponds, lakes, rivers, open farmlands, dense forests, rugged mountains and unspoiled villages. The cycling is superb, the scenery is stunning, and the people are warm, generous and welcoming.

Our first stop after leaving Wroclaw is in Olesnica, a beautiful town that was established as part of the Amber Trail in the 13th century. Today it is home to a unique complex of the Princes Castle, the Basilica of St. John the Apostle and the Wrocław Gate Tower.

Tracing our way along serene country lanes towards the peaceful village of Poreby, we stop in a small village with an even smaller shop where we are spontaneously treated to a large bottle of crystal-clear fluid courtesy of a local. We spend a wonderful afternoon talking about his ‘bike passport’. He bought a small notebook in the 80s and has cycled some 10,000kms since. His book is a conglomeration of petrol station stamps, passport control stamps, tourist attraction stamps… you get the picture. After bidding farewell (Czesc!) we endure a weaving journey of a few hundred meters to a hearty dinner and the comfortable beds of a local agro-tourism farm.

We’re smack bang in the middle of the Milicz Lakes District, home to 13 amphibian species, 250 bird species and 44 different mammals. In the picturesque town of Trzebnica we spend the morning exploring its long and distinguished history. The main attraction is the Cistercian Convent, established in 1202 by Saint Jadwiga (St Hedwig).
We follow the Odra River and head for Wołów, residence of the Silesian Piast Dukes and birthplace of Poland's first cosmonaut. The cosmonaut’s test plane stands proudly on a plinth in the town’s centre.

The village of Lubiaz signals a change in perspective. It rests in the shadow of a massive 12th century Cistercian Abbey, which ranks as the largest monastic complex in central Europe. It survived WWII because high-ranking German officers treated it as their home. Retreating in the face of the Russian advance the Germans blew up the underground network of rooms and tunnels, which led to rumours of a biological weapons laboratory and a nuclear research facility.

The lower Sudety foothills greet us as we arrive in the serene town of Jawor, next to one of the UNESCO-listed Churches of Peace, one of the most exceptional monuments in Lower Silesia. The church is over 43.5m long, 14m wide and 15.7m high and not one nail was used in its construction. It seats 5,500 and was constructed by Breslau (Wrocław) architect Albrecht von Saebisch in 1655. The 200 paintings inside were painted by Georg Flegel in 1671–1681.

Cycling through pristine forests, another immense monument, Castle Książ, comes into view. Książ is one of the best preserved castles in Lower Silesia and the largest hilltop fortress in Poland. We spend a few hours exploring the nooks and crannies of the majestic complex. There is a fascinating escorted ascent to the top of the main tower, where the guide points out the location from which V2 rockets were fired on England during WWII.
Next stop is the fortress town of Świdnica, and the other surviving UNESCO Church of Peace. The Sleza Mountain summons us. The mountain was used for pagan worship in Celtic times and was later settled by an unknown Slavic tribe (who named the mountain and Silesia itself). Situated on its slopes are several ancient sculptures and carvings whose origins and symbolism are not known.

We’ve come full circle and I highly recommend taking another look around Wrocław. Wrocław is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. It will stay in your heart and live in your memory.

Poland is a diverse country with a difficult history. Yet, there is a creativity, a sense of pride, and a pervading optimism running through its people and landscapes. Visiting any of the regions above is captivating; visiting all three is absolutely exquisite. Take your pick, take your adventurous spirit, but above all take your time… it’s important to slow down and live the life of Poland.
 

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