Text by Michelle Smith

For people who have never been to Poland, or who do not too much about the country, Gdańsk is one city that may ring a few bells; even if the name itself does not, events which took place there certainly do. It is Gdańsk, after all, that can claim to be the home of Lech Walęsa, Solidarność (Solidarity) and the former Lenin Shipyards – images of the man, the movement and the shipyards flashed across television screens all over the world during the 1980s. People who had never thought too much about Poland were suddenly witnessing life-changing events unfolding there – nightly – on news bulletins. There was surprise and admiration for the tenacity and grit of the Poles, and the world watched in amazement as Solidarity led to the fall of the Communist regime...something deemed surely impossible by so many.

Some history
For visitors not familiar with Polish history, Gdańsk offers other surprises, including its architecture, which is an accurate reflection of its cultural and historical complexities. After all, pre-war Gdańsk (it was called Danzig at that time) was under Prussian and then Hanseatic rule for centuries, and its architecture beautifully shows this: a visit to this northern city is not unlike a visit to Amsterdam and its buildings are surprisingly elegant. Though badly damaged in WWII – entire sections of the city were completely destroyed – the city was rebuilt to faithfully show how it looked originally. To step into Gdańsk's Main Town (Główne Miasto) is to truly step back in time about 400 years, straight into a Hansa merchants' settlement

Although its physical surroundings remain the same as before 1939, its demographic breakdown most decidedly does not. As indicated by its original name of Danzig, the city was actually German: in fact, for the pre-war population of 400, 000, less than 16,000 were Poles, with Germans making up the rest of the citizens. After 1945, things changed dramatically. Gdańsk came under direct Polish rule for the first time since 1308, and one of the first orders of business was to make it truly Polish. This meant that all ethnic Germans were expelled, causing great tension between the city and its former German inhabitants. Today, although the city attracts foreign investors, businesspeople and residents, it remains strongly and distictively Polish.

Time heals much, however, and a visit to Gdańsk now shows groups of Germans walking the streets, restaurant menus are in German and English, German specialities and beer are on offer, Germans own many businesses which cater to both their countrymen and other visitors, and the shops throng with German tourists eager to buy amber as a souvenir of their time in the city. There is no doubt that German tourists and businesspeople are major forces in the city's economic success, and this easier, more friendly relationship is to the great benefit of both Poland and Germany.

Must-see sights
The obvious starting point is the Główne Miasto (Main Town); it's the largest historic part of the city. A walk down the main thoroughfare, ul. Długa, to Długi Targ, the open square on the street's most eastern corner, is quite natural – a stroll in this direction is very flowing, as it starts at a massive gate called the Brama Wyżanna (Upland Gate) and leads smoothly away. It's worth noting that the gate was the starting point of the Royal Route, used by Polish monarchs on their visits. To retrace their route, go through the ornate Brama Złota (Golden Gate) which is next to the Dwór św. Jerzego (St. George's Court), itself handsomely decorated with Gothic touches and a stauette of St. George and the dragon. From this point, ul. Długa goes directly to the town hall, with shops, cafes and restaurants scattered on either side of the street, along with gorgeous touches on the buildings, such as original engravings, colourful doors and massive windows. Upon reaching the Town Hall, look up: on its roof, the hall has a massive golden statue of King Sigismund August, and the height of the hall, combined with this statue, ensure that the building is a striking aspect of the city's landscape.

From the Town Hall, continue down ul. Długa to the Brama Zielona (Green Gate), which marks the exit from the Main Town and leads out to Gdańsk's stunning waterfront area. Boats still travel up and down, and a short walk away from the city will offer tantalising glimpses of the famous shipyards and open water. Boats offer tours up the Motława Canal, but if the prospect is too chilly for you to contemplate in late autumn, then book yourself into one of the many hotels right along the canal, such as the Hotel Królewski (ul. Ołowianka 1, tel. +48 58 326 1111) Hotel Podewils (ul. Szafarnia 2, tel. +48 58 300 9560) or Hotel Hanza (ul. Tokarska 6, tel. +48 58 305 3427). They are all wonderfully luxurious.

When the mood to shop strikes, turn left out of the Green Gate, pass the former granary district of ul. Chlebnicka (Bread Street) and Brama Chlebnicka (Bread Gate), and then turn left onto ul. Mariacka. This picturesque little street has cool cafes, chic bars and luxury shops galore; the buildings are all dragon-faced gutter spouts and bohemian charm. But look closer: inside those terracced houses are high-end jewelry and clothing shops, all begging to break your resolve and holiday shopping budget. And once you have shopped to your heart's content, sit down at one of the amazingly atmospheric bistros to enjoy a glass of wine, before heading up to the Kościół Mariacki (St. Mary's Church). This is the largest old brick church in the world, and if you climb its 405 steps to its tiny viewing platform, you will be rewarded with a breathtaking (or, depending on your fitness level, perhaps a breathless) view of this beautiful, complex waterfront city.
 

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